It is extracted by first making a cut in the underside of a strip of flax leaf and then placing the straight edge of a mussell shell directly above this on the top side of the leaf. Pressure is applied to the top as the leaf is pulled along which causes the para (leaf skin) to separate from the muka. It takes a bit of practice to master this but is well worth the effort because the muka fibres are beautiful! It also helps if you have the right variety of harakeke.
Last year we harvested our muka flax from Foxton, near the site of the old flax mill. This year we have been privileged to be given permission to harvest from the pa harakeke of the late Diggeress Te Kanawa, one of New Zealand's most respected weavers. It has been amazing to visit her home, see her work and hear the associated stories. So inspiring!
After the muka has been extracted from the strips it is then rolled to produce lengths for weaving. Then it is washed and beaten. Similar processes are found all around the world to prepare natural fibres for weaving.
To make a bodice, I have estimated I will need about 400 whitau (prepared muka lengths). This sounds a lot, but is nothing compared to what I might need if I was making a kakahu (cloak).
